Jackie Zykan: Maître Liquoriste + Perfumer + Herbalist

Jackie Zykan

With over 20 years of experience in beverage alcohol, and a love affair with the natural world, I am delighted to share some of Kentucky’s finest pours alongside fresh, local, and seasonal botanicals. 

November is a time to embrace transitions and pause to revel in the beauty on offer at every phase of life’s precious cycles. Deciduous trees fade from green to brilliance to brown, and eventually rest bare for the winter. Kentucky is home to a plethora of hardwoods which captivate us in the fall and stand as reminders to rest and retreat in stillness during the winter to come. One of my particular favorites exemplifies the notion of something to celebrate in all forms, whether its vibrant and distinctive patterned foliage, or the evolution of the food source it yields over the duration of summer into winter. Black walnuts are a key food source for wildlife and yields an unforgettable aroma which brings back childhood memories of unexpected stains on curious hands. May through early July is prime picking season for these delicacies in their green form, but this time of year is great for harvesting the nuts at maturity. I would certainly advise wearing gloves to prevent staining in any season, and be mindful of surface staining while you work with these wonderful gifts of the forest. 

Featured Kentucky Flora: Juglans nigra (Eastern Black Walnut) 

A familiar resident of Kentucky, Eastern Black Walnut spans the eastern and central United States. The tree is commonly harvested for its rich, dark wood and used for a variety of applications. The nuts are a dense source of omega-3 fatty acids, protein, antioxidants, and have also been used cross-culturally as a medicinal treasure trove with anti-viral and anti-fungal properties. Consuming walnuts is well known to support brain, heart, kidney, and neurological wellness. Utilizing both the hull and nut in this month’s featured recipe allows a full spectrum of flavor and contributes an alternative bittering agent in lieu of dashes of aromatic cocktail bitters. 

Black Walnut Old Fashioned 

• 2 oz 95-100 proof Kentucky Bourbon

• ½ oz bitter black walnut syrup

• Garnish: lemon peel 

It is important to note that any acorns from any type of oak will do for this recipe. While creating this piece, a nearby pin oak readily contributed an abundance of acorns, so this recipe primarily used fruit from that particular tree. I would advise to leave white oak acorns resting where they lie if you are collecting in forested areas. Due to harvesting pressures for its use in the whiskey barrel industry, I tend to leave these gorgeous specimens as undisturbed as possible. Personal preference.

Directions: Combine all ingredients with ice in a mixing glass. Stir until the outside of the glass chills. Strain into double old fashioned glass with fresh ice. Garnish with lemon peel, oils expressed over the drink. 

Non-Alcoholic Variation: As with most barrel-aged spirit cocktail recipes, an easy substitution is a freshly brewed black tea, made at double strength. There are also a variety of non-alcoholic whiskey alternatives on the market which can seamlessly take the place of the bourbon in this recipe. 

Bitter Black Walnut Syrup 

As always, be mindful to clearly identify what you are foraging. Black Walnut is a distinctive ingredient, but be sure to use nuts which are not decaying or housing pests. Please be mindful of potential staining- cover surfaces and wear gloves as needed. 

Ingredients: 

• 6 mature black walnuts with hulls, loosely cracked open 

• 1 cinnamon stick 

• 3 whole cloves 

• 3 whole allspice berries 

• 1 sprig fresh sage 

• 3 cups water, divided 

• 1 cup light brown sugar, packed 

• ¼ tsp salt 

Directions: Rinse black walnuts and hulls thoroughly, then combine with 2 cups of water in a small/medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Once a boil is reached, remove from heat and strain. Discard water, and return walnuts to saucepan. Add remaining 1 cup of water, sugar, salt, and spices. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, continue to simmer until liquid has reduced by half. Remove from heat. Add fresh sage. Allow mixture to cool and then strain into preferred storage vessel. Keep refrigerated. Feel free to save the nuts used in the syrup, they’ll be nicely seasoned and sweetened, ready for toasting on parchment paper in a low heat oven. 

Hosting a large group? Decoding the mystery of batching spirit forward cocktails 

This is one of the most common conundrums I get asked about when it comes to ramping up servings of spirit forward cocktails. “I followed the recipe, multiplied the servings, and it’s too strong”. We tend to think of ingredients as just what is included in the recipe list. But one of the most crucial elements in any cocktail is the dilution which occurs during its preparation. Stirred cocktails are actually the easiest to execute in a batch format, and it just takes the art of embracing the water component which would have come from the melting ice while stirring. When multiplying servings, for every individual recipe, add 1 oz of water. That may seem like a lot, but I can attest after intensive investigation it will not only transform your final result, but also save you having to stir each individual drink. If you are using a lower proof bourbon (80-90 proof), knock it down to ¾ oz of water per serving to maintain balance. Keep the mixture cold, and when you’re ready to serve, simply pour directly over ice and garnish. If you’re more of a Manhattan drinker, this rule applies to mass production of those as well. 

One cocktail, so many variations 

If you have ordered an old fashioned at more than one location, you may have discovered the fact that everyone has their own interpretation of this well known libation recipe. Sometimes you get a splash of club soda on top. Sometimes you get a muddled cherry and/or orange. Sometimes you get a shaken serve. So, let’s break down what “technically” constitutes this classic. The primary components are as follows: spirit, sugar, bitters, water. It’s plain, it’s simple, and with such a straightforward ingredient list, technique (or lack there of) shines through unapologetically. The citrus is a nice touch, but isn’t necessarily required. The pulverized fruit salad that graces the glass takes this simple concoction in the direction of a smash. The addition of carbonation introduces additional acid and dilution to the party which isn’t necessary and can actually knock the balance off center. As a spirit forward cocktail which doesn’t call for fruit juice or dairy, the appropriate method of mixing is to stir, not shake. All of this being said, how you prefer it is always the right way for you. Life is too short to cheer with a glass of something you’re hesitant on. If you’ve got a strict preference on how you like yours made, regardless of the “rules” of the build, be sure to kindly specify to the bartender when ordering to side step surprises. The greatest joy in hospitality is to deliver something that makes the guest’s heart sing, even if it triggers your fears of being high maintenance or “that-person”. Know what you like, kindly ask for it, sip, repeat, and tip well. 

When foraging wild plants always be completely certain of identification and follow the rule of “when in doubt, don’t”. Only take what is needed, leaving plenty for our native pollinators and fauna. Avoid harvesting from areas which are exposed to pesticides or other chemical applications. The statements in this article are for entertainment purposes only and are not meant to diagnose, treat, or medically advise. Please drink responsibly, you are loved by many.