Jackie Zykan Maître Liquoriste + Perfumer + Herbalist

By: Jackie Zykan

In a world of polarization there is one aromatic plant I have yet to ever hear anyone be offended by, and I hope I’m never proven otherwise. Lavender is one of the most beneficial botanicals in both medicinal and fragrance realms. Granted there are moments where perhaps we aren’t seeking calm and instead searching for something to engage elevated energy levels. What many don’t realize is that the same plant can deliver on both, depending on the cultivar. Marketing has most of us under a spell of associating lavender with wind down, which is sometimes true, but not always. Perhaps this piece is biased, as I have been in a deep love affair with lavender for as long as I can remember. It would be a disservice to withhold the knowledge of its much more expansive breadth of its applications.

NOT ALL LAVENDER IS CALMING

I know this may disrupt some neurons but let me explain. The primary calming compounds in lavender are linalool and linalyl acetate. These work with your GABA receptors and provide a relaxed effect. If you’re seeking serenity or looking for a lavender plant that you can use for culinary purposes, English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is your friend. And your only lavender friend. Pay very close attention to the scientific name on the tag when you purchase a plant you intend to utilize for these purposes. English lavender has excellent cold tolerance, which we appreciate in the Midwest, but it struggles in the heat. On the other side of the lavender spectrum you will find French Lavender (Lavandula dentata), Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas), and Portuguese Lavender AKA “Spike Lavender (Lavandula latifolia). These varieties have a significantly higher aromatic profile and are primarily used in commercial essential oil production. Important to note, Spanish Lavender hides its aroma in its foliage, not flowers. The increased fragrance can seduce you into leaning towards these types however, they possess a lower content of calming compounds and a higher content of camphor. They are not for use in culinary applications and they’re not going to help your road rage or work burn out. Here’s why…

CAMPHOR EXPLAINED

Camphor is a compound found in many plant species, or if you’re in a pinch and feeling industrious, can be synthesized from turpentine. This is an interesting fact to consider when purchasing essential oils. Yes these precious drops of plant-matter-gold can be incredibly potent, not to mention expensive. I assure you it’s for good reason. You see, the term “fragrance” as an ingredient is still somewhat of a gamble when it comes to regulations. There are endless products available that may smell like lavender, may have purple labeling, and may add elusive marketing language to convince you you’re getting the benefit of what this plant has to offer - when in fact you’re just slathering what used to be turpentine on your skin. But back to camphor the compound, or I’ll be on a soap box in November’s issue. 

Camphor is a very potent chemical that acts as a stimulant for the brain, heart, and circulatory system. It offers pain relief, decongestion, is antimicrobial, and is an effective insect repellent. It is toxic when consumed at scarily low levels and is very toxic for children especially. It has a sharp, medicinal smell - think VapoRub or muscle relief ointment. It has amazing uses, but it will stimulate, not calm. This is all to say that if you are looking for a lavender essential oil for relaxation, choose Lavandula augustifolia. If you are looking for pain relief, choose Lavandula x intermedia or latifolia. If the scientific name is not present on the label, steer clear altogether. By law a true essential oil must list it.

WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF HYBRIDS

Given our climate here in Kentucky with its wide range of temperature swings, I have found most success growing hybrid varieties. These are listed as Lavandula x intermedia and are a mix between the English and French types. You may recognize “phenomenal”, “grosso”, “Lavandin”, or “Provence” as names at your local garden center; these are hybrids. They have a lower camphor content than pure bred Portuguese or Spanish types, and will thrive through our grueling summers as well as survive the intense winter to return in the spring. 

SKIP THE SEEDS

This is a half serious notion, as I have cultivated thousands of robust, healthy plants over the years from seed. However, the process is a bit different than just plopping them in the dirt. These aren’t your grandmother’s zinnias. These are a labor of love. If you really want the full seed-to-scent experience, just note that you will be more likely to succeed using a process known as cold stratification. About 6 weeks before you are ready to get the seeds in a tray (not outside!) place them on a wet paper towel in a plastic bag. Store them in your refrigerator and be mindful to keep every part of this as sterile as possible to prevent molding. After the 6 weeks, gently transfer the seeds to your preferred starting substrate. They are TINY, so a practice I use is to fill the bag with water, gently shake the seeds loose from the paper towel, and pour them into a white vessel. Use a pipette to carefully deposit the seeds into the substrate. Keep them indoors until they are hardly enough to hold up outside, and keep them moist, not drowned until they’re strong. Don’t be afraid to thin the seedlings out, even though I know it can be heart breaking. They will need all the room they can get. 

ALTERNATIVE (BETTER) OPTION: CUTTINGS

Now we’re finally arriving at why a lavender article belongs in the peak of pumpkin spice season. Taking cuttings is one of the easiest ways to propagate your already established plants that have proven themselves capable of surviving in your environment. Lavender cuttings can be taken in spring or fall, just make sure to collect them in the morning when the plant is hydrated, as well as when the plant is not actively blooming. Here’s how: snip a 2-3” spring from your healthy, hydrated, bloom free plant. Remove the lower leaves and retain only the top bundle. Feel free to trim their tips off however I have seen success in using them without the additional haircut. Dip the bottom of the bare sprig in a rooting powder, then insert it into a shallow tray or dish filled with a well draining mix. The key is to keep it moist, not wet, and to give it time. Don’t be shy with populating your tray, the goal is just to get enough roots revved up to sustain the plant, not to live forever in the cutting tray. Check the cuttings after 6-8 weeks for root growth by gently pulling the entire cutting out of the substrate. If you see roots, transplant. If you don’t, discard. Don’t be discouraged if many of your cuttings simply wither away and don’t take root. The ones that do last will be well suited for success as the plant grows. I grow my cuttings covered outside if the weather behaves. But I move the individual babies in for the winter to get them ready for permanent planting in spring. 

DIRT MATTERS

Lavender thrives in sandy, nutrient poor soil. Don’t give in to the temptation to add compost or feed, and resist over watering. I add generous volumes of vermiculite and sand to spent garden soil when planting, and I skip watering my lavender beds 75% of the time the rest of the garden gets the hose. If you’re looking for a ready made potting mix, grab the succulent blend. These plants make the most out of sun exposure, not fertilizer, so the more drainage the better when it comes to your substrate and vessels.

HARVESTING

If you’re looking for color and to provide for your local pollinators, by all means let your lavender bloom in all its glory. If you’re looking to harvest dried buds, snip the stems right before the buds open and hang in a dark, dry place for at least 6 weeks. The stems and foliage contain aromatic elements as well, so don’t be quick to discard them when your bundle is dried. They can be used in combination with the buds for infusions and tinctures for a more holistic profile.